Westward into the Mountains
After a welcome and briefing at our HQ, we gear up and head west. Before long, we leave the main roads behind and take the forest roads towards our first encounter with the brutalist Soviet architecture of Chiatura.
Chiatura is an old-fashioned mining town that rose to importance during the Soviet era. Its mines are still operational, and some of the old cable cars – often nicknamed “Stalin’s Death Coffins” – can still be seen hanging above the city.
From here, the old concrete roads give way to our first major mountain ascent. This newly paved road is a real joy to ride, with endless curves leading up to spectacular views from the top, at around 2,200 metres.
We finish the day with a taste of authentic Georgian hospitality. Expect delicious local specialities, freshly smoked ham, homemade chacha and traditional bread baked in a stone oven. On many evenings, traditional Georgian music adds to the atmosphere. This is Georgian hospitality at its best.
📍 Distance covered: 250 km
⏱️ Riding time: 4.5 hours
🏍️ Average speed: 55 km/h
⛰️ Highest point: 2,200 m
🛣️ Paved / unpaved: 100% / 0%
Into the Wilds of Svaneti
We begin by riding alongside the Black Sea coastline before turning north towards Svaneti, one of Georgia’s most distinctive and remote regions. Known for its unique culture and long history of independence, Svaneti has always maintained a strong identity of its own. Even the Soviets struggled to fully exert their influence here. Its remoteness and the locals’ traditional resistance to outside authority helped preserve customs and even ancient pagan traditions that survive to this day.
One of the most striking signs of Svaneti’s cultural identity is visible right from the road: its traditional stone watchtowers. Built mainly between the 10th and 12th centuries, these towers served as defensive structures and family strongholds. Remarkably, some were still used to settle local disputes well into the 1990s.
Today also brings one of the region’s most memorable rides: the Zagaro Pass. The route follows a rough, bumpy concrete road that takes us high into the mountains, with glaciers and peaks rising above 5,000 metres all around us. It is a spectacular introduction to the raw beauty of the Greater Caucasus.
📍 Distance covered: 220 km
⏱️ Riding time: 5.5 hours
🏍️ Average speed: 40 km/h
⛰️ Highest point: 2,600 m
🛣️ Paved / unpaved: 80% / 20%
The Enguri River and Back to the Lowlands
We follow the mighty Enguri River deeper into Svaneti, riding past traditional watchtowers and enjoying spectacular views of the famous Mount Ushba. The wider region feels like something out of a green fairytale. In September, the first colours of autumn begin to appear, making this already beautiful landscape even more special.
Before reaching the lowlands, we stop at the impressive Enguri Dam, a monumental structure from the Soviet era. We take a closer look at how it was built and how it continues to operate as one of Georgia’s major sources of energy to this day.
From the dam, we descend towards Kutaisi. This historic city is relaxed yet vibrant, with plenty to discover. Its lively centre, excellent restaurants and café culture make it a great place to unwind after several days in the mountains. We finish the day with a memorable dinner and a taste of the city’s local atmosphere.
📍 Distance covered: 250 km
⏱️ Riding time: 5 hours
🏍️ Average speed: 50 km/h
⛰️ Highest point: 2,200 m
🛣️ Paved / unpaved: 100% / 0%*
*Note: The concrete road between Mestia and Jvari can be bumpy and broken in places, sometimes making it feel more like gravel riding.
From Kutaisi to the Vardzia Gorge
Today we ride from Kutaisi towards Vardzia, entering yet another part of Georgia where the landscape feels completely different from anything we have seen so far. At times, it almost feels as though we have travelled between continents.
One of the highlights is a 35-kilometre off-road mountain pass from Sairme to Abastumani, offering stunning views across the surrounding mountains and the vast Borjomi-Kharagauli protected area, one of Europe’s largest national parks.
We eventually reach Samtskhe-Javakheti, a region known not only for its dramatic cliffs and natural beauty, but also for its remarkable cultural and historical heritage. It is often considered one of the cultural heartlands of present-day Georgia.
Our destination is the extraordinary Vardzia cave complex. Built into the cliffs in the 12th century, this remarkable monastery was designed to remain hidden and protected from invading forces. An earthquake later caused much of the rock face to collapse, exposing the complex that we can explore today.
📍 Distance covered: 190 km
⏱️ Riding time: 5 hours
🏍️ Average speed: 40 km/h
⛰️ Highest point: 2,200 m
🛣️ Paved / unpaved: 60% / 40%
Crossing into Armenia
We leave the Vardzia Gorge behind and begin the day with a steep, winding gravel road that climbs above the valley, rewarding us with some fantastic views.
From here, we continue through a part of Georgia with a large ethnic Armenian population. The landscape and atmosphere gradually change as we approach the Bavra border crossing into Armenia.
Be prepared: border formalities can take some time, offering a little reminder of the bureaucracy of the old Soviet days. Once the procedures are complete, we are back on the bikes and heading into Armenia.
Our first major challenge is the Pushkin Pass, a badly paved mountain road that provides a memorable first introduction to the Armenian landscape. As we ride further into the country, the scenery, villages and surroundings become increasingly different from what we have experienced in Georgia.
We end the day with our first taste of Armenian hospitality, with plenty of homemade food, local specialities and drinks.
📍 Distance covered: 200 km
⏱️ Riding time: 4 hours
🏍️ Average speed: 50 km/h
⛰️ Highest point: 2,300 m
🛣️ Paved / unpaved: 75% / 25%
Mountain Roads and Amberd Fortress
The morning starts with some beautiful winding roads as we make our way towards the mountains surrounding Yerevan.
Hidden among these spectacular mountains is Amberd Fortress. As we climb towards it, the surroundings become increasingly remote. Apart from a few local shepherds and their flocks, there is very little sign of human activity. During the summer months, these high pastures are used for grazing, and life up here seems to have changed very little over the past decades.
Dating back to the 10th century, Amberd Fortress stands at around 2,300 metres above sea level. Its dramatic location, surrounded by deep valleys and towering mountains, makes for some spectacular views.
After exploring the fortress, we descend along the beautiful mountain roads towards the lower lands. Before long, Yerevan appears on the horizon. The outskirts are as Soviet as you can imagine, while the city centre is modern and lively, with plenty of sights to discover, cafés to explore and restaurants to enjoy.
After spending time among shepherds and remote mountain villages, arriving in Armenia’s capital feels like entering a completely different world.
📍 Distance covered: 160 km
⏱️ Riding time: 3 hours
🏍️ Average speed: 50 km/h
⛰️ Highest point: 2,300 m
🛣️ Paved / unpaved: 100% / 0%
Free Day in Yerevan
Today is yours to explore Yerevan at your own pace. Take a stroll through the city centre, visit its historical sights, browse the local markets or simply enjoy the café culture and lively streets.
Yerevan is particularly well known for its thriving restaurant and café scene, so there is plenty to discover when it comes to local food, wine and nightlife.
There is no communal lunch or dinner planned today, giving everyone the freedom to experience the city in their own way.
Noravank, the Silk Road and Lake Sevan
A spectacular but long riding day lies ahead. We leave the capital behind and head towards Noravank Monastery, hidden among dramatic red cliffs. Dating back to the 13th century, this beautiful monastery is a highlight not only for those interested in history and culture, but also for anyone who appreciates spectacular natural surroundings.
After visiting Noravank, we continue into the mountains. The crisp mountain air, endless curves and countless hairpins take us up to around 2,500 metres. Along the way, we reach a historic caravanserai dating back to the days of the Silk Road, where travelling merchants once stopped to rest and find shelter.
Beyond this point, the landscape becomes increasingly remote. We pass shepherds, scattered ruins and vast open mountain scenery. The reason for all this climbing soon becomes clear: we are heading towards Lake Sevan, one of the largest high-altitude lakes in Eurasia.
The lake offers beautiful beaches and the perfect opportunity for a refreshing swim. With snow-capped mountains rising behind the water, it is a spectacular place to finish the day.
📍 Distance covered: 270 km
⏱️ Riding time: 4.5 hours
🏍️ Average speed: 60 km/h
⛰️ Highest point: 2,500 m
🛣️ Paved / unpaved: 85% / 15%
The Mountain Passes of Tavush
We start the day riding alongside the seemingly endless shores of Lake Sevan. Where the lake finally ends, the mountainous Tavush region begins.
Naturally, we don’t take the fastest route. Instead, we look for the highest, windiest and most scenic roads we can find. The green, rolling mountains, distant peaks and sweeping views make this one of the most memorable rides in Armenia. In early autumn, the changing colours make the landscape even more impressive.
We cross two mountain passes, climbing and descending through a series of beautiful curves. There are plenty of places to stop, take in the views and enjoy the surroundings. Traffic is almost non-existent, and the only company we often have is the occasional bird of prey circling above us.
After the mountain ride, we stop in Dilijan for lunch. Known as an Armenian spa town, Dilijan is famous for its historic houses, charming streets and traditional handicraft shops, where you can find authentic Armenian souvenirs and local products.
After exploring Dilijan, we continue north, gradually making our way closer to the Georgian border.
📍 Distance covered: 240 km
⏱️ Riding time: 4.5 hours
🏍️ Average speed: 50 km/h
⛰️ Highest point: 2,500 m
🛣️ Paved / unpaved: 100% / 0%
Back to Georgia
We begin the final riding day with a series of winding roads as we make our way towards the far north of Armenia.
Here we find the lesser-known Guguti border crossing. Compared to some of the other crossings in the region, the formalities are usually relatively quick, often taking around 30 minutes.
Once back in Georgia, we are rewarded with a fantastic winding forest road that takes us towards Bolnisi. This area has a fascinating history, with a strong German influence dating back to the 19th century, when settlers from Swabia established communities here.
There are some interesting historical sights to discover along the way, as well as plenty of great curves to enjoy on our final stretch.
A fitting end to an unforgettable motorcycle adventure through two very different countries, with spectacular mountain roads, remote landscapes and plenty of cultural discoveries along the way.
📍 Distance covered: 200 km
⏱️ Riding time: 4 hours
🏍️ Average speed: 50 km/h
⛰️ Highest point: 1,700 m
🛣️ Paved / unpaved: 100% / 0%